Friday, February 27, 2009

Conde Nast Traveler/Flights of Fancy on a Snowbound Day

I recently unearthed the December 2008 issue of Conde Nast Traveler from underneath a stack of books that I had begun reading and abandoned tomake the trip to China. I had gotten the subscription in lieu of losing domestic air miles but had not actually looked at the magazine in many years previous to that.
This issue is really a gem. And I must say most of the articles are very well-written and well-intentioned. It was the perfect panacea after yet another snowy afternoon/evening. A brief respite from the last weeks of winter.
This issue features an article on ecotravel called “On Native Ground”, in which ethno-botanist/anthropologist Wade Davis contributes a wonderful essay on the importance of multi-culturalism in the world. He has the soul of a poet, the knowledge of a scientist and is passionate about this subject, having studied with traditional shaman around the world as well as graduating from Harvard. He was also National Geographic’s Explorer in Residence.
In his essay he offers …”in the same way that biologists are concerned with a loss of biodiversity, so too in the realm of culture, we are seeing a collapse of diversity that is truly astonishing”… “a great indicator of this is language loss. A language is not just a grammar and vocabulary. It is a flash of the human spirit, the soul of a culture, the old growth forest of the mind”. He coined the very appropriate word “ethnosphere” to allude to the web of life that human cultures contribute as the world of nature is the biosphere.
I have heard him give this speech at a symposium in Toronto and it still gives me goose bumps in print. So too are the cultural artistic expressions of traditional tribal peoples and all people the “flashes of human spirit” for that matter. He is truly preaching to the choir when it comes to me. We both were at the Peabody Museum at Harvard in the 80s when he was researching zombies in Haiti which later became an international best-seller, “The Serpent and the Rainbow”. How lucky we all are that he embraced cultural anthropology as well as ethnobotany, later on.
Back in the 1990’s my partner and I traveled in Burma attempting to document what was left of traditional costume of tribal groups collectively known to outsiders as the Chin people. Most of these groups had been greatly marginalized by the government and the dominant culture. This unfortunately has transpired in most of the world. But with the growth of ecotourism many of these peoples have been given a more positive profile due to economics. Of course opportunity for exploitation is rife in some countries. But if developed responsibly, the outcome could be beneficial, especially when the money goes back to the people hosting the tourists. There are several articles discussing this in a thoughtful manner in this issue.
For a real treat and armchair adventure visit www.ted.com and select the talk: Wade Davis: Cultures at the Far Edge of the World. This 22 minute video features lots of Wade’s amazing field photographs and will having you happily singing in the “choir of cultural diversity” by the end!
Happy traveling!

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Winter Doldrums –Winter Songs

Snow is still piled high in sculpted mounds from shovel and plow,edges softened by Artic blasts and scurrying squirrels.The sugary surface is artfully patterned with the comings and goings of scavenging birds. Dangerously daggling icicles, hang like crystal from the roofline, beautiful and deadly in the full moon’s light. Ice dams dominate all northern exposures, snow tires blowout in icy slush, and the wood bin constantly needs filling…a long-suffering whine is necessary and unavoidable.
I think it is safe to say the Winter Doldrums have paid a visit and even the incredible reflection of moonlight on the sparkling ground below fails to enchant for more than a moment. But what a difference a day can make in New England…

Today’s warm temperatures have created music from the drips, and splashes of water liberated from the cold’s icy grip. The chickadees are frolicking in the birdbath and call others to join them from the trees. Phoebes and Barred Owls echo encouragement throughout the woods. Bluejays squawk and preen as the queenly rhododendron relaxes her usually tightly furled leaves. All living things exhale a sigh of relief. Out back I spotted the first tiny buds on the white lilac…

Life is sweet again with anticipation, as I make it back to the house through knee-deep drifts. The cats bask on the front steps like a summer’s day, fresh oat grass growing green and bright in a sunny spot to be enjoyed by them later. Winter has given us a much needed respite.Euphoria will be short lived however as 32 degrees is predicted for tomorrow.

But no matter, the signs have been seen and the longer days are on our side …
The ancient Pagan festival of Imbolc usually held around February 2, marked a time for cleansing and purification. It was an occasion for clearing away the dross and dormancy of Winter and preparing for the arrival of Spring and the freshness of
new life. These eternal changes are arriving daily and the doldrums will be surely be shown the door soon.

Hang in there all my fellow inhabitants of the Northern climes, the wheel is turning … Spring is on the way… one day at a time.